Using a base during printing helps establish a strong adhesion between the model and the build platform. However, our latest formulations have been developed to ensure perfect adhesion even with smaller bases, reducing the need for additional support structures.

Whether to include the sprues in the print depends on the model's geometry. If the design allows it, printing the sprues along with the model can save time during tree assembly. Our X Resins perform similarly to wax, making this practice beneficial.

Our resins contain a significant amount of waxy polymers, which can increase their viscosity. Preheating the resin helps dissolve these waxy polymers, reducing viscosity, minimizing peeling forces, and ultimately improving printing quality. Generally, the optimal operating range for preheating is between 20°C and 30°C.

Shaking the resin thoroughly ensures that all the different components are well-mixed. This enhances reactivity, particularly when the resin has been unused for an extended period.

Click Here to access the profile And how to use it: BlueCast X-One

The density of BlueCast resins before printing is 1.09.

It is important to store your resin at room temperature, ideally between 18°C and 35°C. Keep it away from direct sunlight or any strong light source, and avoid placing it near air conditioning units.

The main cause of the orange skin issue is the temperature of the flask and/or alloy during casting. If the temperatures are too high, the investment calcium sulfate can release gas, resulting in the orange skin problem. Another reason could be a reaction between the printed parts and the investment, especially if the last bath in clean alcohol was not used. SUGGESTION: Check the casting temperatures and consider reducing them. Additionally, try using a different alcohol for the final step or spray fresh alcohol over the patterns before drying them.

The primary reason for investment cracks is incorrect preparation. This can occur when the water-to-powder ratio is incorrect, the mixing time is too long, tap water is used, or when the investment is expired. Another reason could be having very small gaps between the patterns or between the patterns and the flask limits. SUGGESTION: Always use distilled water and, before starting the operation, prepare the required water and investment quantities according to the supplier's recommendations, using a scale. Monitor your mixing time using a timer and ensure there is a 1 cm gap between the patterns and the flask limits.

Incomplete sprue welding can cause investment debris to dislodge and spread when the metal is poured. Also, make sure to use clean rubber cups. This issue is easy to recognize because the holes are not round but have geometric shapes.

Low metal temperature and inadequate spruing are the main causes of incomplete castings. For spin and vacuum casting systems, proper tree layout is crucial. In the case of complex wax roads, the metal may not flow everywhere and reach the desired areas. For double-stage casting machines (vacuum/pressure), it is essential to examine the vacuum pump and gas pressure. SUGGESTION: Check the alloy temperature and arrange the tree in a configuration suitable for the designs you are casting. Inspect all the components of your casting equipment.

While we have tested various commercially available investments with good results, we have found that Optima Prestige by Certus and PlasiCast by R&R provide the best detail and surface quality. These investments are forgiving of small errors that may occur during flask preparation. However, following instructions will yield good results with any gypsum-bonded investment. When mixing the investment, never use sink water as it contains chloride and minerals. Only use distilled water. Adjusting the water-to-powder ratio will affect the investment's hardness and properties. Lowering the water content will result in harder, more brittle investment, making it difficult for gases to escape and potentially causing cracks. Conversely, increasing the water content will yield softer investment with rougher surfaces and loss of details. Both the temperature of the water and powder will impact investment quality and pot life. Store the water in the refrigerator and keep the powder in the coldest place available. Gypsum hardening is an exothermic reaction, and supplying more heat will accelerate hardening, potentially leading to cracks and reduced investment resistance. Respect the recommended mixing time and, if using a manual mixer, use the slowest speed available to avoid introducing air into the mixture. Air can expedite the hardening process, leading to casting issues. Avoid using boric acid with our castable resins, as it adds strength to the investment, making it difficult to devest and causing excessive closure of pores, resulting in cracks. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for mixing the investment. Mix slowly until the powder is completely wet. Pour the investment down the side of the flask, avoiding the pattern tree to prevent trapping bubbles. Using a vacuum chamber, extract any bubbles from the flask. Allow the investment to harden and dry. Be cautious with the vacuum, as it can make the investment fragile, especially if patterns have engravings. While a minimum of 2 hours is generally recommended, we strongly suggest a curing time/rest of 4 to 6 hours, especially if there are positive/negative engravings.

Although our castable resins are compatible with all burnouts, our preferred method is as follows: CELCIUS (°C) 0-150°C: Ramp up temperature 150°C - 3 hrs: Hold at 150°C for 3 hours 150°C – 680°C: Ramp up temperature 680°C - 3 hrs: Hold at 680°C for 3 hours Down to casting temperature Ramp 8 degrees/min Fahrenheit (°F) 0-300°F 300°F - 3 hrs 300°F – 1256°F 1250°F - 3 hrs Ramps 47 degrees Fahrenheit /min

One of the most common casting issues is filled engravings. First, check the proportions of depth and width. Texts should never be deeper than they are wide. If the text is not too deep, you can let the flask rest for a longer time to make the investment harder or reduce the water quantity by 1 or 2%. We do not recommend using Boric Acid with our resins.

Holes can occur if the DLP engine has burned pixels or if the LCD screen has black areas that prevent proper light projection. Additionally, dirty glass windows or LCD screens, or a damaged FEP sheet, can also lead to holes in prints.

Before running the Z-Axis calibration, ensure that your build platform is planar by checking it with a calibrated bar. If it is not flat, you can fix this issue by using 150/200 grade sandpaper to sand the build platform. Perform the Z-Axis calibration according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This calibration will help ensure the proper alignment and functioning of the printer's components. Check the condition of your FEP (Flexible Elastic Polymer) sheet. It is strongly recommended to use high-quality FEP options such as HD FEP, FEP 2.0, or PFA. Using a poor-quality FEP can compromise the printability of the resin and lead to issues with platform adhesion and peeling force. Verify the stability of your support structures and ensure that your models are fixed and correct. Make sure there are no broken parts in the model that could affect the printing process. Once you have confirmed the model's integrity, check the layers of the sliced file to ensure they are accurately prepared for printing. By following these steps, you can troubleshoot and address the sticking platform issue more effectively.

Currently, there are several free resources available for this purpose. One of the most effective options is 3D Builder, a free Windows app. Another option is Autodesk MeshMixer. Additionally, there are paid software solutions like Magics.

To enhance platform model adhesion, you can try the following methods: increase the exposure time for the bottom layer, sand the build platform using 150/200 grade sandpaper, and pre-heat the resin before printing.

Layer separation is often caused by incorrect layer exposure. Over-curing makes it difficult for layers to adhere to each other, while under-curing affects layer building. First, check if you are using the correct printing profile. If you are, consider adjusting the exposure settings based on the specific issue you are facing. If the issue persists, inspect and replace your FEP sheet. Incorrect peeling can also contribute to this problem. Printing profiles

Filtering the resin is especially necessary after experiencing broken prints. If any models are broken or not properly attached to the platform (fallen parts), there may be unwanted debris inside the resin tray. Filtering the resin is recommended. If you are not using the resin overnight, it is safer to filter it and return it to the bottle.

The most likely reasons for nothing printing is a corrupt slicing file or a malfunctioning machine. If you suspect parameter mistakes or encounter issues with Z-Calibration, check for patterns in the resin tank. If no patterns are found, we suggest testing the machine and contacting the manufacturer for further assistance.

Excessive curing is the primary reason for prints being brittle. Resin that is over-cured during or after printing becomes more prone to brittleness. To address this, try changing the profile settings and reducing the UV post-curing time, especially if you have brittle print.

Always check your FEP sheet first. If that doesn't resolve the issue, consider greasing the Z-Axis. If the problem persists, it is advisable to contact the 3D printer manufacturer for further assistance.

Our Castable Resins, particularly X-One, contain a high percentage of waxy polymer. While these resins may appear soft, you can post-cure the patterns to make them more rigid. We strongly recommend UV post-curing for Cr3a and X-Filigree resins.

If cracks appear immediately after printing, it is likely due to incorrectly placed supports. This can occur when the pattern moves freely during the lifting process. If cracks appear after washing, it might be caused by the type of alcohol used. Try reducing the washing time to minimize this issue.

While BlueCast resins have smooth surfaces, if you encounter a layering effect, we suggest reducing the layer exposure by 10% and switching to PFA FEP. The peeling force could be a contributing factor.

To ensure the most accurate casting results, please follow the correct procedure outlined below: Do not prescale the file. Please note that the printed patterns may appear approximately 1-1.5% smaller compared to the original design. This size difference will remain constant over time and will not shrink further. Wash the prints using Ethyl alcohol 99° and an ultrasonic cleaner for 3 minutes. If using IPA (Isopropyl alcohol), wash for 3 minutes without the ultrasonic cleaner. Utilize compressed air to thoroughly dry the pattern. Apply a fresh coat of alcohol over the patterns using a spray. Once again, use compressed air to remove any excess alcohol. Proper washing is of utmost importance to ensure casting accuracy. If immediate investment of the models is required after printing, it is suggested to perform 10 minutes of UV curing. However, if time allows, waiting for 20-30 minutes before casting eliminates the need for UV curing altogether. During the investing procedure, the pattern will experience a growth of 1-1.5%, resulting in cast parts that perfectly match the STL file. Following these guidelines will help achieve precise and reliable casting outcomes.

No, we maintain a stock based on a 2-year forecast, and we are the only castable resin manufacturer with two production plants (Italy and Emirates) and a branch office in the US.

Our mission is to develop castable resins that can rival wax in terms of accuracy and burnout. At BlueCast, we have a dedicated Jewelry Manufacturing Department that enables us to gain a deep understanding of the needs of goldsmiths and rigorously test the performance of our products. With our new X-One and X-Filigree V2 resins, which utilize proprietary polymers, we can print in the morning and cast in the evening. These resins are compatible with standard wax burnout (12 hrs.), fast burnout (6 hrs.), and ultra-fast burnout (2 hrs.).

No, they do not require phosphatic or special investments. We strongly suggest to follow the mixing time and instructions provided by the manufacturers. For solid and heavy designs such as chevaliers and celebration rings, we recommend allowing the flask to rest for 4 hours before casting.

Generally, no. But please refer to the specific resin page you will be using for accurate information.

The ultra-fast burnout (2 hrs at 700°C) has been validated for X-One and X-Filigree V2 only. If using other BlueCast castable resins, adhere to the standard burnout schedule (fast burnout is possible for X5 and X10). After completing the burnout, it is recommended to gradually decrease the temperature to the casting temperature to avoid cracks caused by differential thermal expansion between the flask and investment.

BlueCast resins are the preferred choice because they are incredibly easy to print, eliminating the need for lengthy post-processing or wasting time after printing. They are compatible with all burnout processes and do not require any special investments to achieve perfect casting results.

CELCIUS (°C) 0-150°C: Ramp up temperature 150°C - 3 hrs: Hold at 150°C for 3 hours 150°C –680°C: Ramp up temperature 680°C - 3 hrs: Hold at 680°C for 3 hours Down to casting temperature Ramp 8 degrees/min Fahrenheit (°F) 0-300°F 300°F - 3 hrs 300°F – 1256°F 1250°F - 3 hrs Ramps 47 degrees Fahrenheit/min (or as fast as possible)

No, it is not. Currently, LCD printing technology is revolutionary, offering affordability, user-friendliness, and excellent printing quality. There are several machines available for less than 1000 USD that are well-suited for jewelry applications. When considering resin costs, our most expensive castable resin is between 0.1 to 0.25 USD for a standard ring and 0.4 to 0.6 USD for a celebration ring.

Our resins offer casting quality comparable to wax, significantly reduce production time, and help save energy costs by being compatible with ultra-fast burnout (2 hrs.). The surface quality is exceptionally smooth, and the casting process is free of ash residuals, eliminating the need for extra finishing time.

BlueCast resins have a higher price due to our commitment to using only advanced polymers sourced from European, American, and Korean suppliers. Our resins are free from toxic and carcinogenic components, and we continually strive to minimize the presence of irritant chemicals. To ensure consistent performance over time and eliminate variations between production batches, we thoroughly test all raw materials before utilizing them.

We understand the jewelry market well and always strive to provide the best possible solutions according to our customers' requirements. Some of our newest products are suitable for printing and casting the most common designs. Additionally, different types of resins are necessary due to the various light sources used in 3D printing technologies. X-One X-Filigree X-Nova X10 X5

TEMPERATURE - Our resins contain a significant amount of waxy polymers, which can increase their viscosity. Preheating the resin helps dissolve these waxy polymers, reducing viscosity, minimizing peeling forces, and ultimately improving printing quality. Generally, the optimal operating range for preheating is between 20°C and 30°C. AGITATION - Shaking the resin thoroughly ensures that all the different components are well-mixed. This enhances reactivity, particularly when the resin has been unused for an extended period.

All our "X-Resins" have been developed to perform similarly to wax. X-One and other specific resins are the first castable resins that melt like wax with any investment, burnout, and oven.